“The” Bridge. 

As many of you know, we love the Scandinavian shows on SBS & one of our all time favourites has been The Bridge.  The first series began with a murder & the body was found on the Oresund Bridge which connects Sweden to Denmark. It was strategically placed half in Sweden & half in Norway which meant that the two police forces had to cooperate to solve the murder.

So today we caught the train from Copenhagen to Malmö in Sweden. The train bridge is underneath the vehicle bridge. The bridge runs nearly 8km from the Swedish coast to an artificial island Peberholm where the tracks enter a 4km tunnel to the Danish island of Amager.  It also calls at Copenhagen airport.  The train runs every 20 minutes. The body of water is called Oresund Strait.


Malmö is a pretty town with many potted gardens, lots of restaurants and lovely old buildings.  We had lunch there & came home again.



Now that we are so close to coming home, we both are quite keen for Tuesday to come. We’ve had a wonderful holiday & have some amazing memories which will keep us going for a long time but the thought of our own bed is very attractive. Mind you the bed on the Marina was, I think, the most comfortable bed we’ve ever slept in!

There are at least 2 things you can do in Europe that you can’t do at home:-

  • Catch a train, ride for 40 minutes & have lunch in another country & come back again
  • Take your dog on the train to the other country with you. (A dog sat next to us on the train this morning – on the floor at her owner’s legs. They can even stay in this hotel!)

We do love the European markets!

This morning we walked to Torvhallerne market & were not disappointed, except that we couldn’t stock up & come home & cook up all the lovely vegetables: white asparagus, broad beans, peas, beautiful little caulis……  That’s the bad news about staying in an hotel rather than getting an apartment. I forgot to take pics of the beautiful berries, cherries & other stone fruit but we did stock up on them & on a delcious nougat!  We had another tasty Danish open sandwich for lunch. The bread is so good!  We also had an excellent flat white, a proper one, the best since we left home.

This is a lovely park between our hotel & the market:


After David’s nap & my reading time, we went to the famous Tivoli Gardens which are just a block away. The gardens there are beautifully maintained &, of course, the rides are amazing but not for us. But the grandkids would love it, wouldn’t you all?  Well 5 of you anyway.  (Lotte is a bit small yet). There are many restaurants there too.




I think Copenhagen has almost as many bikes as Amsterdam. Apparently 9,000 pass the door of this hotel every morning.


Only 15,500 steps today!  I think he’s getting used to it!

Who would have thought?

Who would have thought David could walk almost 20,000 steps in a day (without complaining)?  Not me but he did today!

We left the hotel (Comfort Hotel Vesterbro – which is reasonably comfortable but we have been spoils over the last two weeks.) about 9:30 & walked up the main shopping street on our way to Amelienborg, the home of the Royal Family. We watched the changing of the guard which was not of the standard of Buckingham Palace & not as entertaining as the Greek guards with their unusual stepping. No flags were flying so our Aussie Princess wasn’t there & nor were other members of the royal family. The ceremony was drawn out. We watched for 45 minutes & it was still going.

We then walked on further to see The Little Mermaid.  She perches on a rock beside the canal & is a tribute to the Hans Christian Andersen start & the ballet of that name.


By this stage we needed a rest so we went into a restaurant with a view over the canal & had a Danish open sandwich – David, ham & me, herring. Very tasty.   The harbour is very busy with dozens of canal tours out on the water all crammed with tourists & all pausing beside the mermaid for photos.

We were going to catch the metro back but weren’t sure where the station was. We asked a guy selling orange juice from a cart & he said: “I get asked these questions a thousand times a day. I am not an information centre.  I just can’t do it”. So he was no help!  All of his customers were tourists but hey, he didn’t want to be helpful.

In the end, we walked back to the hotel. A rest & then dinner at an Italian restaurant across the street. No more walking, the man said!

Last port of call

Last night we w ent to Toscana, the Italian speciality restaurant on Marina. It was also excellent & we are still amazed that there is no surcharge for these restaurants. My lobster tagliatelle was delicious:


I really enjoyed the views from our balcony like the sunset last night.


And this morning we woke to our first view of Copenhagen:


The cruise was wonderful. Oceania stinted on nothing. Free shuttles in any port where you couldn’t walk to town.  Everyone was very happy with the cruise. And then they spoiled it!  You could book a transfer from the ship to the city or to the airport for $400!  It’s 8km. Ridiculously exorbitant. So, of course, hardly anyone used them. We all waited for taxis. There were 3 other ships unloading at the same time so we were queueing for just over 2 hrs!  The taxi fare was $50.  So everyone finished the cruise with a bad taste in their mouth.

False economy, I reckon & not very good business.

Our hotel is quite comfortable but we have been spoiled with the luxurious cabin we had on Marina. It is right in the centre of the city. Today we’ve just had a wander to get our bearings. We found a great coffee shop with flat whites & a good restaurant serving typical Danish food where we had Danish roast pork with boiled baby potatoes & pickled red cabbage.


We had our photo taken with Hans Christian Andersen as we walked along the avenue named after him.


Think we’ll enjoy ourselves here.

Food glorious food!

Last night we went to Red Ginger,  the speciality Asian restaurant on board. What a treat!  We ordered the share plate first, expecting it to be quite small. Small, it wasn’t:

But it was delicious.

David chose lobster pad Thai as his main & I was choosing Dover sole tempura when the waiter asked if I’d tried their sea bass & when I said I hadn’t she said I should it was delicious.  So I ordered the sea bass.

It was amazing. It had been marinated in palm sugar & soy sauce for 24 hrs & was caramelised. It was so good!  But the waitress said that I needed to try the Dover sole as well so they brought that too!  It was lovely as well but not as good as the sea bass.

We refused dessert as we were so full but the waiter said that we had to, at least, try dessert as it was their speciality. So, there were 2 choices at the bottom of the menu for teaspoons of fancy ice creams so we chose 1 each. But that wasn’t good enough for them. They bought another dessert of 3 egg cup sized serves of icecreams & said we should try. So we did try then & they were lovely but we were so full afterwards that we waddled off to the show.

Tonight we’re going to the Italian restaurant, Toscana but I still feel full from last night.

This morning we docked in Warnemunde, Germany. Many people went on a 12 trip to Berlin but we thought we’d give that a miss & just wandered into Warnemunde which is a delightful little seaside resort. It was a fishing town but now is all about tourism with a wide beach & all these little shelters for hire & a number of wonderful sand sculptures of stories about Sinbad the Sailor.


We have washed & packed & must put our ports outside by 10pm & be off the ship by 9am tomorrow. Then we will explore Copenhagen. We’re getting close to the end of this amazing journey which has been great. We will be happy to be home though.

Lazy day at sea!


We’re sitting back in the very comfortable library enjoying our books. It’s been a bit crowded as it has been a miserable day but the sun has come out now so people are moving out to the deck chairs.  Baristas with OK flat whites is just next door so life is good!

We really like some of the art work on the ship. Here’s some for you to enjoy:






The public spaces are elaborate & there are many nooks, crannies & large spaces to socialise or hide away but all tastefully done:



The on-board shop has some lovely goods, probably my favourite is this set of Matroska dolls with 20 pieces but at $3600 it might have to stay in the shop unfortunately.


We really like this ship – we prefer it to the Queen Elizabeth. We love that we can eat at a time that suits us in The Grand Dining Room. We’ve had a lovely breakfast there every day. David has been enjoying grilled lamb chops. They are much more generous with soft drinks, coffees, bottled water, the speciality restaurants all being included. The staff are very friendly & are always cracking jokes. It’s great. We’re loving it & certainly enjoying the luxury!

Cat & mouse in Klaipėda, Lithuania 

This morning we docked in Klaipėdia, the third largest city in Lithuania. David’s GG grandmother, Ziporah Wachman came out to Australia in 1890 from here with the rest of their children. Remember, her husband came out with the two eldest boys in 1888. We have no information on where she lived or anything but it is good to be here, at least.

We wandered around the town.  We were given a map of a walking tour which was fun so we went searching for the places on the map. Unfortunately many of the places were closed because it was Sunday.

Yesterday we walked more than 17,000 steps on horrible cobble stones – Aleks really kept us moving. We did another 10,000 here this morning on cobble stones so our legs are feeling it. We have another 6 hours in port but reckon we’ve done enough walking for today.

Again there some beautiful old buildings including this post office. It was built in 1893 & the exterior is a mix of neo gothic, classicism& jugend style – whatever all that means. It has a set of concert bells in the tower & they rang at midday which was lovely.


I took a photo of another old building in the same street, Liepu Street just as a horse & cart was passing:


Why did I mention a cat & mouse in the heading?  Well here they are:



So what are they doing here?

It seems the the granite sculpture of the cat with a man’s face was done many years ago. Rumour is that it has supernatural powers so you pet its tail & make a wish.

The mouse is just 17cm high & made of bronze & stone. It is decorated with a spell band which says “Convert your ideas into words – words will become magic”.  If you whisper into the ear of the mouse, your wish will come true.

I’ve been asked to post a picture of our ship so here is the Oceania Marina, a really lovely ship.



David features in both of those. It’s not a massive ship – it takes 1,200 passengers & has 800 crew. The second picture is during our sailing from Stockholm.  We are finding it really luxurious.

David is napping now so I’m going to head to the library, lie back on a lovely leather couch & read my book. The weather has turned again – it’s cool & windy & threatening rain so I’m not tempted to go out on deck.

Some beauty but much grief & sadness

Last night we went to the Polo Grill, one of the speciality restaurants on board.  There’s no extra charge – it is all included & as we did when we went to the French one, Jacques, the other night, we had a wonderful dinner. David started with giant shrimps, then we both had a tomato & red onion salad, followed by a freshly grilled whole lobster. It was delicious.  My mouth waters again just thinking about it. For dessert David had crème bruleé which he raved about & I had three beautiful marshmallows – one in caramel sauce, one raspberry & one chocolate. All of the food on board is excellent but I think that was our favourite meal so far.

This morning we docked in Riga the capital of Latvia & we met Aleksandrs Feigmanis, Master of History & Doctor of Theology. He is the Jewish genealogist who researched the Edelman family for us & he was our guide for today. He was very interesting & a very pleasant man & he walked us all over the old town. It is a lovely warm (22°) day here in Riga today.

The old town of Riga is UNESCO world heritage protected & has some beautiful old buildings. The town began in 1201 & is bordered by the River Daugava on the west & encircled by a canal on the east.

We saw some beautiful examples of Art Nouveau architecture:


I had no time to be careful with my shots. Aleks was walking very quickly & I had to take them on the run. He told us some much interesting history about the houses – I should have taped him – no way we can remember it all.

We saw the Three Brothers, 3 houses in a row which illustrate the development of housing over the centuries from Medieval to Baroque. I think the first was built in 1642

The white one on the right is the oldest, then the yellow, then the green all about a century apart.
Of course many Jews here were killed during the Nazi years. I think there were 70,000 here before the war & now fewer than 5,000. Synagogues were burnt down. This is a memorial built on the site where the Nazis burnt down a Synagogue where they had the people trapped inside. There are flowers at the memorial because the anniversary of this was on 4th July & they had services.


We saw the old Jewish ghetto area where people lived crowded together, more than a family to a room. The houses were wooden & some very poor people still live there.


It is always very sad to hear the history. It is impossible to understand how it could happen.

David’s great grandfather was born somewhere near Riga around 1840 & came to Australia in 1888 with his two eldest sons, one of which was David’s grandfather. They lived in a small shetl (village). Aleks says we should return for at least three days & he will show us.

Would be nice but I don’t think we will make it!

Another city, another country Helsinki, Finland

So now we’re doing the “another day, another country” thing but at least our home moves with us & we’re not packing, unpacking all the time. Thank goodness!

We docked here this morning about 8 & caught the free shuttle bus into the old town. We really appreciate these free buses that Oceania put on. It allows you to go into town & just enjoy it. Many people did tours but we really don’t want to tour any more castles, cathedrals or churches as we’ve seen plenty over the years so we’re happy to wander on our own.

Helsinki is surrounded by water on 3 sides & overlooks the Gulf of Finland & the Baltic Sea. We loved the fish market, very similar to the Bergen Fish Market – lots of delicious looking fresh berries, peas & potatoes – made us wish we had an apartment & could stay a while: (In the background you can see the lovely building which is the city hall).


There are a couple of beautiful old churches. Firstly, the Lutheran Cathedral ( this is the most popular religion here):


And the Orthodox Church:


We had great fun shopping here. There were sales everywhere & we bought some lovely things.

Apparently 33% of Finland is green space & we saw plenty of lovely parks as we drove into town & walked around:


It is lovely to see the sun & obviously the Finns thought so too. As I sit on our balcony, I can see many people enjoying water sports on the harbour.


We sail very shortly for Riga in Latvia & to meet our Jewish genealogist for a tour & to learn more about the life & culture of Jews, better to understand the life of David’s great great grandparents who migrated to Australia in 1888. Looking forward to that!

Metro ride & free time in St Petersburg

On our last afternoon in St P we boarded a bus to go into the city centre to ride the metro & see their renowned stations. It was fun & a little bit testing since there were 30 in our group with a guide in the front, a young helper at the rear & a few very old, not very active passengers in our group. The 2 elevators at the station where we entered took us down 71 metres. It’s a very deep subway & for someone like me who has a fear of going down, especially on elevators, it was a challenge …. But I hung on tight to David & all was well – just as well I’d practised a few weeks ago on the London Underground.

It was worth it!  The mosaics in the stations were lovely:




The very tall man in the mosaics is Peter the Great. He was 201 cm about 61cm taller than other people at that time.

Our guide was very excited that she didn’t lose anyone.

Then she let us loose to wander & shop on our own which we enjoyed and we stocked up on a few presents.  Shopping arcades are shopping arcades anywhere.

When we returned to the ship we set sail for Finland.

We had dinner in the Grand Dining Room where the service is excellent, you can eat at any time & it is free seating. We were joined by an American couple from Orlando & an English couple from the Midlands. Everyone on this ship is so friendly it is really enjoyable. After dinner we went with our new friends for 30 mins of dancing & then to the ship’s nightly entertainment: an Iris magician/comedian. It was passable.

The crew are wonderful. One of the waiters in the Grand Dining Room is a real card. He even came & stirred David’s coffee at one meal.

So yes, we’re having a wonderful time. We reckon we will sail with Oceania again. Half of the passengers are American but there are 37 nationalities amongst the passengers & 49 amongst the crew!  So we are a multicultural lot!